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Monday, February 26, 2007
 

Welcome to Bombay Sir


India has a reputation that preceeds itself. I have heard so many travel stories of the overwhelming poverty and crush of population. More recently everything I read about India is about it as the future co-superpower with China (Chindia as they call it).

Arriving at Mumbai International the terminal looked like it hadn't changed since the 1950's. I love it. It's like a glimpse back in time which you are not afforded in todays modern hub airports of Southeast Asia.

I turned on my mobile phone and I received a welcome message from a local mobile network. They tell me I have a free coffee waiting for me at an Indian cafe chain in Mumbai. Then the power went out and we were left in pitch darkness at the baggage carousel. This moment pretty much summed up the new and old India, trying to work together.

When I eventually stepped out of the airport a porter greeted me with "Welcome to Bombay Sir" and lead me to my waiting taxi. I couldn't help but let him port my luggage after hearing that (not that I had a choice). Bombay has such an exotic ring to it. The heat, the tropical trees and the funky little taxis tell you that you are somewhere special.

The taxis in Mumbai are black and yellow Fiats. If you are over 6 foot you will need to crouch to see the view and keep your head off the roof. Getting a taxi from the airport is hassle free as there is a prepaid taxi stand in the arrivals hall.


Mumbai Taxi


The cab ride into the city encapsulated India in one ride. Traffic three cars wide sharing a two lane road. Cars, trucks, auto rickshaws, motorbikes, bicycles, pedestrians walking down the middle of the road, holy cows, mangy dogs, feral cats, stray children and piles of rubbish everywhere. Breathtaking lane changes and the never ending honking of horns. All the trucks have painted on the back "Horn OK Please", as if it needs to be encouraged anymore.


Horn OK Please


Mumbai (known as Bombay until 1996) is home to over 18 million people. The city is an Island peninsula connected to the mainland by bridges. Most visitors stay in the Colaba area, which is at the bottom of the peninsula. For a city that has nearly the same population of Australia I was expecting chaos, but it is a relatively orderly city, in the historic area at least. I went for many wanders outside this area to find the chaos I was expecting.

At some point between the airport and Colaba you cross a river, and autorickshaws are not allowed past this point. This makes a huge difference to the amount of air and noise pollution, compared to the Mumbai you see upon arrival, where the autorickshaws are permitted.

Mumbai has an impressive legacy of British colonial architecture. Grand public and civic buildings such as Chhatrapati Shivaji Terminus (formerly Victoria Terminus) train station, modelled on St Pancras Station in London.

The Fort area, Churchgate and Colaba is full of run down old mansions and apartment buildings which just scream potential. As India grows economically one hopes they are restored rather than knocked down.


CST Victoria Terminus
CST Victoria Terminus

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Posted by James Clark - editor of itravelnet.com
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